A lemon-dressed potato salad for the table

This potato salad has no mayonnaise. Its flavour comes from a lemon dressing that reaches the cut surfaces while the potatoes are still warm. Waxy potatoes hold their shape better than floury ones, which tend to break apart during tossing. Keep the pieces fairly large and use a broad spoon so the finished bowl stays textured rather than mashed.

Ingredients

For four side portions, use 750 g small waxy potatoes, three tablespoons olive oil, two tablespoons lemon juice, one teaspoon Dijon mustard, two spring onions finely sliced and a small handful of parsley chopped. Add salt and black pepper to taste. Preparation and cooking take about 30 minutes, plus any cooling time. The mustard contains an allergen, so keep its packaging available if serving guests.

Cook until just tender

Scrub the potatoes and halve any that are much larger than the rest. Put them in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to a gentle boil. Simmer until a knife enters the centre easily, usually 12–18 minutes depending on size. Test more than one potato. Vigorous boiling can damage the outside before the middle is ready.

While they cook, whisk the oil, lemon juice and mustard in a large bowl. Add a little pepper. Drain the potatoes thoroughly and let the excess steam escape for a couple of minutes. Cut any remaining large potatoes into comfortable bite-sized pieces, taking care while they are hot.

Add the warm potatoes to the dressing and fold gently. Leave them briefly to absorb it, then add the spring onions and parsley. Taste a piece rather than only the liquid at the bottom of the bowl. Adjust salt or lemon in small amounts. The salad should taste lively but not so sharp that the potatoes disappear behind the dressing.

Serving warm or chilled

Serve soon after making if you prefer a warm salad. For a cold version, cool promptly and refrigerate in a shallow covered container; do not leave a deep bowl on the counter for the afternoon. Add a little fresh parsley before serving if the original herbs have darkened. Cold potatoes mute flavours, so taste again before adding extra dressing.

Use refrigerated leftovers within 48 hours. Keep the salad chilled during transport and put out a modest amount at a time for an outdoor meal. The lack of mayonnaise does not make cooked potatoes safe to leave warm indefinitely. Freeze neither the finished salad nor the dressing-covered leftovers if you want to preserve their texture; potatoes can become grainy after thawing.

Capers can replace some of the seasoning if you enjoy a briny note, but add them gradually. A small amount changes the character of the bowl considerably. For a simpler version, leave the mustard out and whisk the lemon and oil immediately before tossing; the dressing will separate more readily, which is normal.